Vực Vông Temple

Vực Vông Temple is a historical and cultural relic located within the complex of the ancient capital of Hoa Lư, beside the Hoàng Long River, in Chi Phong hamlet, the ancient village of Trường Yên – Tây Hoa Lư ward, Ninh Bình.

The temple was built in the 16th century and has been restored and rebuilt many times. The overall architecture of the temple follows the 'Công' (工) character layout, consisting of three parts: the Bái đường (worship hall), Trung đường (middle hall), and the main sanctuary. The Bái đường is dedicated to the Supervisor Official, while the main sanctuary venerates Lady Nguyễn Thị Niên, whom the local people revere as Mẫu Thoải (Mother of Water) for her contributions to water management, abolishing the custom of sacrificing people to the thuồng luồng (water monster), and bringing peace to the people of the ancient capital.

Vực Vông Temple also preserves 17 imperial decrees regarding Quận công Bùi Văn Khuê, the husband of Lady Niên, who contributed to the restoration of temples in the ancient capital of Hoa Lư, allowing them to retain their near-original architecture to this day.

According to legend and the temple's sacred genealogy, Nguyễn Thị Niên was the daughter of Nguyễn Quyện, a general during the Mạc dynasty. She was accomplished in both literature and martial arts, beautiful, and followed her father to garrison the land of Hoa Lư. In Nguyễn Quyện's army were two dukes: Quận Mỹ (Bùi Văn Khuê) and Quận Kế (Phan Văn Ngạn). Quận Mỹ was talented in both civil and military affairs and was modest in character. Quận Kế was less capable, arrogant, and relied on royal favour. Both fell in love with Nguyễn Thị Niên.

At that time, in the Hoàng Long River, near Vực Vông, there was a large whirlpool that caused annual floods and disasters for the villagers. Therefore, there was a custom that each year a ritual had to be performed, after which a girl was thrown into the whirlpool as a sacrifice to the thuồng luồng (water monster). If this was not done, it was believed that the monster would raise the waters and bring calamity to the whole region. Outraged by this custom, Lady Niên set the condition that the two men must find the cause and put an end to it. Whoever succeeded, she would agree to marry.

Quận Mỹ dived into the whirlpool to investigate and discovered that the current was blocked by submerged rocks, causing the flow to change direction. Every year, when the water rose, the whirlpool became more violent, sucking in boats and causing much damage in the area. By building a stone embankment to redirect the flow, the whirlpool would disappear. He broke rocks from the mountain to fill the countercurrent, and the river returned to tranquillity. As a result, Quận Mỹ was victorious and married her.

Quận Kế, enraged, plotted to harm her father and seize the position of garrison commander of Trường Yên. He then conspired to kill Quận Mỹ to take Nguyễn Thị Niên for himself. She pretended to agree, got him drunk, then beheaded Quận Kế to avenge her father and husband. Afterwards, she jumped into the Hoàng Long River to commit suicide. Her body drifted to Vực Vuông, where the people retrieved it and held a funeral. The locals mourned her with deep sympathy, remembering the couple for abolishing the cruel custom and saving many lives. They built a temple to her on the very spot, now called Vực Temple. The temple has been restored for solemn worship, is renowned for its spiritual power, and attracts many pilgrims from near and far. Today, when visiting Ninh Bình, besides other tourist sites, visitors can come to Vực Temple, light incense in memory of a talented and virtuous woman, and enjoy the serene and elegant scenery of the temple.

The temple still preserves a large horizontal inscribed board bestowed by the king with the four characters "Tiết Liệt Trung Trinh" (Chaste and Loyal), and a poem:

At Gián Khẩu she gave her life, upholding virtue,

At Vực Vông, the scene of moral order is restored.

Oh, travellers with rosy cheeks passing by,

Pause to admire the scene and take it as an example.