Kim Liên Temple

Kim Liên Temple – đình (its formal name is Kim Liên Từ), also known as Cao Sơn Temple, is the southern guardian temple (trấn) among the four guardian temples of the ancient Thăng Long Citadel, which include four temples: Quán Thánh Temple (guarding the north of the citadel); Bạch Mã Temple (guarding the east); Voi Phục Temple (guarding the west); and Kim Liên Temple (guarding the south). Compared to the other three temples, Kim Liên Temple was built later (around the 16th–17th centuries).

This đình (communal house) belongs to the old Kim Liên village, now at 176 Kim Hoa Street, Văn Miếu - Quốc Tử Giám ward, Hanoi city.

Kim Liên Temple was originally established to worship Cao Sơn Đại Vương (according to folk belief, he was a son of Lạc Long Quân and Âu Cơ, who later followed his mother up the mountain). According to a particularly large stone stele, 2.34m high, 1.57m wide, and 0.22m thick, still preserved at the temple (this is also the most precious relic at this temple) with the inscription "Cao Sơn đại vương thần từ bi minh", the stele text was composed by the historian Lê Trung in 1510 and recounts the merits of the deity Cao Sơn. The content states: When King Lê Tương Dực led troops to quell rebellion and restore the legacy of King Lê Thái Tổ, three high officials—Nguyễn Bá Lân, Nguyễn Hoàng Dụ, and Nguyễn Văn Lữ—joined him in the campaign. Upon reaching the territory of Phụng Hóa district (now the site of Láo Temple, Văn Phú commune, Nho Quan district, Ninh Bình province), they saw a dense mountain forest with an ancient temple inscribed with the four characters "Cao Sơn đại vương". Finding this strange, the king and his officials prayed for the deity’s support. Indeed, after ten days, they succeeded. Therefore, King Lê Tương Dực had a temple built to worship Cao Sơn deity in Phụng Hóa. Later, remembering the deity’s covert assistance in quelling rebellion in Đông Đô, in 1509 the king ordered the construction of a larger, more beautiful temple in Kim Hoa ward near Thăng Long at that time.

Later, the villagers of Kim Liên built a tam quan (three-entrance gate) in front of the temple gate, right next to Kim Liên pond, and added several new architectural features, forming Kim Liên đình. In addition to Cao Sơn Đại Vương, this temple and đình also worship the Tam Phủ (Three Palaces), the Mother Goddess, and President Hồ Chí Minh.

The đình is built on a high mound to the east of Kim Liên pond. The đình gate and the main sanctuary entrance both face west, overlooking Kim Liên pond (which no longer exists, having been filled in for the construction of Ring Road 1). The architecture of the đình consists of two relatively distinct parts: in front of the mound is a pillar gate (trụ biểu), with two rows of side buildings (giải vũ) flanking a wide brick courtyard; the main architectural section of the site is on the high mound. After crossing the upper courtyard, one ascends nine high brick steps built from large bricks of the Lê Trung Hưng period, connecting the two architectural sections.

The main đình consists of the Nghi môn (ceremonial gate), Đại bái (main hall), and Cung cấm (sanctuary). The Nghi môn is a three-bay house, built with gable-end walls. Four sets of roof supports are constructed in the chồng rường giá chiêng, cột trốn style. The architectural elements are decorated with lively, elaborate motifs in the Nguyễn dynasty artistic style. The Đại bái hall consists of five bays, newly restored by the city on the occasion of the 990th anniversary of Thăng Long–Hà Nội, in traditional architectural style. The hậu cung (sanctuary) is a three-bay longitudinal house, built of bare brick with traditional Vietnamese tiles. Inside, the house has vaulted ceilings, with the interior arranged as follows: the outermost bay has a high brick pedestal for the incense altar; the second bay has a high brick pedestal for the long ngai (royal seat) and ritual objects. The innermost bay is dedicated to Cao Sơn Đại Vương and two accompanying female deities (Princess Động Hồ Trưng Vương, daughter of King Lê, and Princess Huệ Minh). In February 2009, the đình was repaired and restored.

The most important relic at Kim Liên đình is the stone stele "Cao Sơn Đại Vương thần từ bi minh" composed by the historian Lê Tung in 1510, recounting the merits of the deity Cao Sơn in secretly helping King Lê regain the throne from usurpers, and a system of 39 imperial decrees conferring titles upon Cao Sơn Đại Vương, including twenty-six from the Lê Trung Hưng period and thirteen from the Nguyễn dynasty, the earliest of which dates to the second year of Vĩnh Tộ (1620).

The festival of Kim Liên Temple and đình is held annually on the 16th day of the third lunar month.

At the Kim Liên đình festival, in addition to the monthly sóc vọng ceremonies and the kỳ an (peace-seeking) rites, the main festival falls on the sixteenth day of the third lunar month, six days after the Hùng Kings’ ancestral death anniversary. During the festival, there are three places from which palanquins are carried: Quỳnh Lôi, Phương Liệt, and Bạch Mai. Then, the grand procession goes from Kim Liên đình to Hàng Than (where Linh Lang Đại Vương is worshipped). Previously, Thủ Lệ Temple (one of the four guardian temples) would usually send elderly representatives to present offerings.

After the ritual and incense-offering ceremonies are completed, the festival features many games such as: catching ducks in the pond (in front of the temple), seesaw, boat-based cooking contests, cockfighting, blindfolded pot-breaking, and especially the seven-tiered food tray contest.

The traditional festival schedule:

- 11th day of the third lunar month: The long đình palanquin and the male deity’s palanquin are carried to Nam Khang sluice (now Hanoi University of Science and Technology); then by boat to the inner temple (located on an island in Thống Nhất Park, dedicated to the Mother Goddess). The procession stays overnight.

- 12th day: The female deity’s palanquin (kiệu võng) and a white horse are carried to Phương Liệt đình (dedicated to Lady Đàm Hoa) to welcome her (at Bạch Mai crossroads). The imperial decree records that the deity’s wife is Lady Đàm Hoa, and his mother is Trương Minh Tự.