Pagodas in Hương Sơn

Hương Sơn is a commune located in the south of Mỹ Đức district, Hanoi city, Vietnam. Here, there are many limestone mountain ranges beside winding streams. On the mountains and inside the caves, many temples and pagodas have been built, with the centre being Hương Pagoda in Hương Tích Cave. The system of pagodas, temples, and caves in this area is based on the limestone mountains and tropical forests, with a total area of about 6 km².

According to legend, this mountainous area with caves was discovered more than two thousand years ago and was named Hương Sơn—taking the name of a mountain north of Tuyết Sơn in the Himalayas (India), where the Buddha practised asceticism for six continuous years.

During the reign of King Lê Thánh Tông (1460–1497), a Buddhist hermitage was established on the land of Thiên Trù Pagoda. According to the book "Hương Sơn Thiên Trù thiên phú", Hương Pagoda was built during the reign of Lê Hy Tông, era name Chính Hòa (1680–1705). The stele at Thiên Trù Pagoda records that the construction of the foundation, stone steps, and the restoration of the Kim Dung sanctuary of the pagoda were carried out in 1686.

The main pagodas were built on a large scale around the end of the 17th century. By the early 20th century, there were more than 100 pagodas in this area.

To visit the pagodas in Hương Sơn, pilgrims usually follow different routes. The main route is from Bến Đục, located on the bank of the Đáy River. This is the gateway to the scenic area, crowded with boats. In addition, it is possible to go by the footpath along the base of the mountain (but nowadays this route is no longer accessible). On the way from bến Yến to Bến Trò, people can stop at Trình Temple (meaning the place to "present oneself" to the deities before entering the Buddha's realm) on Ngũ Nhạc Mountain. This is a temple dedicated to a mountain deity. The temple is also called Quan Lớn, worshipping a general of King Hùng.

On the Yến Stream, there is a wooden bridge called Hội Bridge. From the foot of the bridge, turning left leads to Thanh Sơn Pagoda inside a mountain cave.

From Bến Trò, one walks up to Trò Pagoda, that is, Thiên Trù Pagoda (meaning Heavenly Kitchen), also called Outer Pagoda. From the wharf to the pagoda, there is a stele house, inside which stands the "Thiên Trù tự bi ký" stele erected in the 7th year of Chính Hòa, recording the restoration activities of Thiên Trù Pagoda and Hương Tích Pagoda by the monk Viên Quang.

In the past, the pagoda was built hidden within four mountain walls, with dozens of compartments, but it was destroyed during the war. Nam Thiên Gate, built during the reign of King Gia Long (1809), was also destroyed.

In the middle of the pagoda courtyard stands a bronze censer 3 m high. Next to the courtyard is a semicircular pond and a stupa garden. In the stupa garden is Viên Công Stupa, containing the remains of Zen master Viên Quang, who contributed to the restoration of Hương Pagoda after many years of abandonment, erected in the 17th century. The stupa is built of bare red bricks, four storeys high, with the 2nd and 3rd storeys having curved roofs with upturned corners. Thiên Trù Pagoda also has a bell cast in the 2nd year of Cảnh Thịnh (1793) during the Tây Sơn dynasty. The person who raised funds to cast this bell was the monk Hải Viên. Thiên Trù was destroyed in 1947. The current pagoda is smaller than the old one. The front hall and main sanctuary of the new Thiên Trù Pagoda have only recently been rebuilt. In the centre of the Buddha altar is a stone statue of Quan Âm Nam Hải, sculpted after the model in Hương Tích Pagoda but enlarged 2.5 times, reaching 2.8 m in height.

Here there is also Thiên Thủy Stupa, a natural stone peak rising upside down like a naturally formed stupa, with rainwater from the mountain flowing down along it. In 1986, Thiên Trù Pagoda was restored with a new bell tower, and by 1989, the two-storey Tam Bảo Hall in the shape of the letter "Đinh" was completed. At the beginning of 1994, the pagoda rebuilt Nam Thiên Gate (Southern Heavenly Gate) according to the original model.

Near Thiên Trù Pagoda is Tiên Mountain, with Tiên Pagoda inside a cave. In the pagoda are five stone statues carved by stonemasons from Kiện Khê (Hà Nam) in 1907, based on the legend that Lady Ba Diệu Thiện attained enlightenment as Avalokiteśvara Bodhisattva at Hương Sơn. The statue of Lady Ba is in the centre, in front is the eldest sister Diệu Thanh riding a blue lion (Mañjuśrī Bodhisattva) and the second sister Diệu Âm riding a white elephant (Samantabhadra Bodhisattva). Behind are statues of Lady Ba's royal father and queen mother.

On the way from Thiên Trù Pagoda to Hương Tích Cave is Giải Oan Pagoda. Here there is a crystal-clear well called "Thiên nhiên thanh trì" or Long Tuyền Well. In front of the pagoda is the Nine-Source Stream, called Giải Oan Stream. Near the pagoda are Tuyết Kinh Cave and Phật Tích Hermitage, where there is a rock said to bear the footprint of Avalokiteśvara Bodhisattva. Not far from there, visitors reach Chấn Song Mountain to visit Võng Gate Temple, dedicated to the Mother Goddess of the Highlands (Mẫu Thượng Ngàn).

From Thiên Trù Pagoda, following the winding mountain path for about 2 km leads to Hương Pagoda, also called Inner Pagoda. From Thiên Trù Pagoda, there is also a turn through the apricot forest to Hinh Bồng Pagoda.

In addition, one can follow Tuyết Stream to Mẫu Hạ Temple, then to Thuyền Rồng Mountain, Con Phượng Mountain, Đầu Sư Tử Rock, Kỳ Sơn Tú Thủy Cliff, and then to Tuyết Sơn Wharf to Bảo Đài Pagoda. In the pagoda, there is still a very beautiful bronze statue of Cửu Long. From Bảo Đài Pagoda, a flat path leads to Tuyết Pagoda in Ngọc Long Cave. Tuyết Pagoda was built by a princess during the Trịnh era in 1694. Here there is also a bas-relief portrait of her carved into the cave wall. In 1770, Trịnh Sâm composed the poem "Đăng Tuyết sơn hữu hứng" here.

Another route follows a branch of the Yến Stream, past Ông Sư Bà vãi Mountain, landing at Long Vân Wharf, climbing the mountain to visit Cây Khế Pagoda, and Sũng Sàm Cave, a Hoà Bình culture archaeological site.

The Hương Sơn Pagoda Festival is the longest pagoda festival in Vietnam, lasting for three months after Tết Nguyên Đán (Lunar New Year).

Folk verse describes:

A vast land of mountains and water

Is this the Land of the Lạc or the Peach Blossom Spring?

Hương Sơn is a fairyland

A paradise found in the mortal world.