Phụng Sơn Pagoda

Phụng Sơn Pagoda, with the formal name Phụng Sơn Tự, also known as Gò Pagoda, is located at 1408 Đường 3 tháng 2, Minh Phụng Ward, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. This ancient pagoda was classified as a "National-level Historical and Cultural Monument" on 16 November 1988.

Phụng Sơn Pagoda was established by Zen master Liễu Thông (1754–1840) in the early 19th century, during the reign of Emperor Gia Long, on the site of an ancient Chân Lạp pagoda, similar to Giác Lâm Pagoda and Cây Mai Pagoda. It was situated on a small hill surrounded by Bàu Chuông pond, where lotuses were planted.

According to legend, while travelling to Gia Định prefecture, Zen master Liễu Thông saw that the scenery here was tranquil and suitable for spiritual cultivation, so he built a thatched hermitage at this spot, which locals affectionately called Gò Pagoda. One day, a phoenix (chim phụng) landed on a Firmiana simplex tree in front of the hermitage and crowed. The Zen master considered this a good omen and named the pagoda Phụng Sơn Tự, meaning "the pagoda on the mountain with a phoenix".

In 1904, the thatched hermitage was rebuilt. Since then, the pagoda has undergone two major renovations: during the tenure of abbot Huệ Minh (1904–1915) and in 1960. In 1963, Venerable Thích Phước Quang had the triple-arched gate (tam quan) rebuilt, designed by architect Nguyễn Bá Lăng. Although it has been renovated several times, the pagoda still follows the traditional architecture with a wooden frame and yin-yang tiled roof. Phụng Sơn Pagoda is built in the shape of the Chinese character "quốc" (國), over 40 metres long and nearly 20 metres wide, with verandas running around all four sides. Inside, the pagoda is clearly divided into two areas: the front is the main hall (chính điện), separated by an open courtyard, and the rear is the lecture hall (nhà giảng).

On either side of the open courtyard are the east and west corridors (đông lang and tây lang), connecting the two areas. The courtyard features a rockery, a statue of Avalokiteśvara (Quan Âm), and ornamental trees. Thanks to this courtyard, the pagoda is airy and well-lit. In the main hall, all the pillars are made of fine wood, which has turned glossy black over time. The pagoda follows the "front Buddha, rear Patriarchs" (tiền Phật, hậu Tổ) worship arrangement. The Buddha hall contains many old wooden Buddha statues, gilded and artistically carved. In total, the pagoda has about 40 worship statues. Many of the statues were crafted by a group of artisans from Sa Đéc, invited by abbot Huệ Minh in the early 20th century. There are many precious statues, such as the Amitābha Trinity (Di Đà Tam Tôn), the Five Worthies (Ngũ Hiền thượng kỳ thú), a stone Buddha statue, and the Tiêu Diện statue, among others.

The land where Gò Pagoda is located is an archaeological site. According to documents from the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of History, in 1988 and 1991, archaeologists discovered terracotta human faces, ceramics, etc., belonging to the Óc Eo culture. A bronze Buddha statue in the Thai style was also found here...

In 1909, monk Huệ Minh brought a variety of apricot tree (mai) from Cây Mai Pagoda to plant at the pagoda. This is a rare apricot variety, praised by many poets of the Bạch Mai Poetry Society, such as Trịnh Hoài Đức, Nguyễn Thông, Tôn Thọ Tường, etc., and to this day only one old apricot tree remains beside the pagoda.

In the past, before the land was urbanised, the entire area around the pagoda was very quiet, with a wide lotus pond and protective moats surrounding the hill. Now, the pagoda's grounds have been encroached upon, the moats have been filled with rubbish, and the lotus pond has been reduced by houses built along its banks. As a result, the pagoda has lost much of its natural beauty and the tranquillity expected of a renowned monastery...

Phụng Sơn Pagoda is one of the ancient pagodas that still bears strong traces of folk beliefs. For example, along the main hall corridor is an altar to Linh Sơn Thánh Mẫu, one of the revered goddesses widely worshipped in the South. Traces of the coexistence and interaction of various ethnic groups in this region are also reflected in the presence of a small miếu (spirit shrine) dedicated to Ông Tà (Neak Tà) within the pagoda grounds, beside the ancestral stupas (tháp Tổ). This form of belief is a common cultural feature among the Khmer people. As one of the ancient pagodas that still preserves distinctive features in terms of location, architecture, sculpture, arrangement, and worship practices, Phụng Sơn Pagoda has contributed to the rich and diverse cultural and artistic values in the development of Buddhist culture in Southern Vietnam.