Linh Phong Pagoda (Bình Định)
Gia Lai(formerly Bình Định)(Chùa Linh Phong (Bình Định))
Overview & history
Linh Phong Thiền Tự, also known as Ông Núi Pagoda, is a famous ancient pagoda in Gia Lai, Vietnam.
Location
On the southeastern slope of Bà Mountain, more than 30 miles from Trà Bàn (Đồ Bàn) citadel; now located in Phương Phi hamlet (Cát Tiến commune, Gia Lai province), there once stood an ancient pagoda named Linh Phong Thiền Tự.
This is a scenic site of the province, as recorded in the Đại Nam nhất thống chí:
Linh Phong Pagoda in Phương Phi hamlet, Phù Cát district, backs onto a high mountain (Bà Mountain), faces the Biển cạn lagoon (i.e. Thị Nại lagoon), with streams winding around, creating a truly beautiful landscape.
The Đại Nam dư địa chi ước biên records:
Linh Phong Pagoda in Phương Phi hamlet, Phù Cát district, backs onto a high mountain, looks out over Hạc Hải lagoon (i.e. Thị Nại lagoon), with lush and beautiful flowers and grass. Hence the saying: "Auspicious clouds everywhere, Linh Phong Pagoda enveloped in fresh flowers," and a couplet (in Chinese characters) translated as follows:
The seashore brings forth good karma, gentle rain moistens the land and beautifies the earth;
Linh Phong gathers auspicious energy, auspicious clouds everywhere cover humankind.
History
According to legend, in the year Nhâm Ngọ (1702) during the reign of Lord Nguyễn Phúc Chu, a Chinese monk, whose secular name was Lê Ban (?), came to a stone cave on the eastern side of Bà Mountain to practise asceticism. Later, the monk moved to the mountainside, "clearing wild brambles, carrying large stones to build here and fill there, tying grass to make thatch, erecting a small hermitage, and naming it Dũng Tuyền Pagoda".
In the year Quý Sửu (1733), Lord Nguyễn Phúc Chú, admiring the monk's virtue, conferred upon him the title Tịnh Giác Thiện Trì Đại Lão Thiền Sư, and ordered Dũng Tuyền Pagoda to be rebuilt into a large tiled pagoda, naming it Linh Phong Thiền Tự.
According to the "Linh Phong tự ký" by the renowned official Đào Tấn, the Zen master passed away "during a time of turmoil" (referring to the Tây Sơn period). Afterwards, his disciples built a stupa to the right of the pagoda in the 8th year of Thái Đức (the reign title of Nguyễn Nhạc) (1785).
In the 7th year of Gia Long (1808), following the advice of the Holy Mother, Empress Hiếu Khương, the king issued a decree forbidding anyone from encroaching upon or taking any items from the pagoda while awaiting restoration.
However, it was not until the Minh Mạng era that Linh Phong Pagoda was extensively renovated. The Nguyễn dynasty records: "One day, the king fell ill, and as he dozed off, he dreamt of an old monk in a bark robe standing by his bed, fanning him; by morning, he had recovered. At court, the king recounted the story to his officials, and someone suggested that the old monk was likely the Zen master of Linh Phong Pagoda in the past." Therefore, in 1826, the king bestowed upon the pagoda a newly made kasaya robe for worship, and allocated 120 taels of silver from the treasury for its restoration.
In 1884-1885, during the reigns of Kiến Phúc and Hàm Nghi, the high official Đào Tấn "resigned and returned south, hiding his traces at Linh Phong Pagoda to escape turmoil".
In 1895, Đào Tấn was appointed Minister of Public Works. "Wishing to renovate the ancient pagoda, he reported the matter to the Western Palace (referring to the mother of Emperor Thành Thái). Following his mother's advice, Emperor Thành Thái instructed the provincial authorities to allocate 70 taels of silver for the restoration of the pagoda, and also ordered the local people to contribute further. By the 8th lunar month of the year Đinh Dậu (1897), the work was completed, and the pagoda's scenery at that time was very beautiful.
Afterwards, through time and war, only the eastern triple-arched gate and a stupa of the ancient pagoda remained. In 2004, a new pagoda was built on the site of the former Linh Phong Pagoda.
Related Information
In the year Quý Sửu (1733), when Linh Phong Pagoda was first solidly constructed, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Chú bestowed upon the pagoda a horizontal board and two parallel couplets. The horizontal board was inscribed with the four characters "Linh Phong Thiền Tự"; on the left was inscribed "Vĩnh Khánh, first month of the year Quý Sửu", and on the right "Inscribed by the Sovereign".
On the two couplets were inscribed the following:
Hải ngạn khởi lương nhân, pháp vũ phổ thiên tư Phật thổ;
Linh Phong ngưng thoại khí, tường vân biến địa ấm nhân gian.
Which means:
The seashore meets good fortune, the Dharma rain moistens the sky and enriches the Buddha's land;
Linh Mountain gathers auspicious energy, auspicious clouds everywhere shelter the people.
Besides the folk songs about Ông Núi Pagoda (i.e. Linh Phong Pagoda) still circulating among the people, there are also several poems about this ancient pagoda, including works by Phan Thanh Giản, Đào Tấn, Võ Kiêm, Quách Tấn... Here are two excerpts of folk songs:
Trees shade piled-up rocks,
The sea stretches below the mountain, the pagoda nestles in the clouds.
Worldly dust does not cling at all,
This body is free, the months and days leisurely pass.
And:
Where has Ông Núi gone?
Leaving behind the landscape of mountains and waters
Full of virtue and wisdom
Even more grand and marvellous...
The old pagoda fades in the twilight,
Stirring the heart with the weight of the land and waters.
References
Quốc sử quán triều Nguyễn (Cao Xuân Dục as Chief Compiler), Đại Nam chính biên liệt truyện (translated edition, referred to as "Chính biên" in the article). Văn học Publishing House, 2004.
Quốc sử quán triều Nguyễn (Cao Xuân Dục as Chief Compiler), Đại Nam dư địa chi ước biên. Văn học Publishing House, 2003.
Đào Tấn, "Linh Phong tự ký" (written in 1903) included in The History of Buddhism in Đàng Trong by Nguyễn Hiền Đức. Hồ Chí Minh City Publishing House, 1995, pp. 111-115.
Thích Thanh Từ, Vietnamese Zen Masters. Published by the Buddhist Association of Ho Chi Minh City, 1992.
Quách Tấn, Wandering Steps. Trẻ Publishing House, 1996.
Quách Tấn, The Land and Waters of Bình Định (relevant section [2])
Photos
📷 Contribute photosVisiting tips
- Dress modestly; remove hats and keep quiet inside the main hall.
- Incense, flowers and offerings are usually sold right outside the gate; light an odd number of sticks (1 or 3).
- Most pagodas open from early morning to evening and are free to enter (some major sites charge a small scenic fee).
- Full-moon days, the 1st of the lunar month and Tet are very crowded; visit on weekday mornings for a quiet experience.
- Ask permission before photographing inside shrines; do not touch statues or altar objects.
Read more & references
Useful links to learn more before your visit:
References
Other pagodas in Gia Lai
