Châu Phú Communal House

Châu Phú Communal House has the formal name Trung Nghĩa Từ (Chinese characters: 忠 義 祠), and is also known as Lễ Công Ancestral Hall (abbreviated as Lễ Công Temple, commonly called Ông Temple by the people); it is located at the corner of Trần Hưng Đạo and Nguyễn Văn Thoại streets, in Châu Đốc ward, An Giang province (Vietnam). This is the oldest communal house in the province, and is a national-level architectural and artistic heritage site.

The communal house was built by Nguyễn Văn Thoại (1761–1829) to worship Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh (1650–1700). There are various opinions about the year of construction, but it is generally agreed to be between 1817 (the year he took office as Governor of Vĩnh Thanh) and 1829 (the year of his death).

Initially, the communal house was simply built with a thatched roof, wooden plank walls, and an earthen floor, located in a spacious, airy compound with many ancient trees, its main façade facing the Hậu River, and was named Lễ Công Temple (commonly called Ông Temple by the people). Afterwards, it was cared for by Mrs. Huỳnh Thị Phú (wife of Lê Công Thoàn). Between 1838 and 1858, she took charge of renovating the temple and building a brick foundation.

The Đại Nam nhất thống chí records: "Lễ Công Temple in Châu Phú village, Tây Xuyên district, worships Nguyễn Hữu Kỉnh. The temple was built by Nguyễn Văn Thụy (i.e. Thoại Ngọc Hầu) when he was Governor; now the incense and fire are as before, often manifesting spiritual power"...

This is a temple listed among the official places of worship, with rituals conducted according to the national code during the Nguyễn dynasty. During the French colonial period, like many other temples, Lễ Công Temple was also converted into a đình (communal house for village tutelary worship), with the new name: Châu Phú Communal House.

In 1926, the French authorities in Châu Đốc province decided to relocate the communal house to build a hospital on the site (now Châu Đốc City Hospital). Mrs. Huỳnh Thị Phú and village chief Lan mobilised the people to contribute money and resources to move the communal house to the head of Châu Đốc market, its current location.

Because the project was too costly, the amount raised and the village’s public funds were insufficient, so the provincial authorities organised a Tombola lottery to raise additional construction funds.

From then until now, over more than 200 years, although it has undergone many repairs and reinforcements, the original architecture has been preserved.

Châu Phú Communal House covers an area of 240 m², built solidly in an ancient architectural style, in the "tam" (three-section) layout, with a towered roof, three-tiered tiled roof (large and small tiles), patterned cement floor tiles, brick and lime walls with decorative panels, and columns made of căm xe and cà chất hardwoods. On the roof are many beautiful, vigorous carvings such as: the Eight Immortals, two dragons vying for a pearl, two dragons flanking the moon, carp transforming into dragons, birds, peacocks, phoenixes, lions, etc.

Outside, a sturdy fence encloses the grounds, with ancient trees providing shade in the courtyard. In two corners of the yard are the Ngũ Hành miếu (Five Elements shrine) and Sơn Quân miếu (Mountain Spirit shrine). The triple-gate entrance is roofed with red tiles, with a three-tiered curved roof decorated with dragon motifs. Above is a horizontal board inscribed in Chinese characters: 忠 義 祠 (Trung Nghĩa Từ). The board is mounted on both sides of the gate. The gate columns are adorned with red parallel sentences.

The main building is elaborately decorated. The front corridor is filled with arched windows and intricate patterns. Above the main entrance is a horizontal board inscribed with four Chinese characters: 上等神廟 (Thượng Đẳng Thần Miếu, "Superior Spirit Temple"). The main sanctuary consists of three sections. The central section is the altar for Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh – Superior Deity, Thoại Ngọc Hầu – Middle Deity, and the Chánh phó Vệ Thủy deity. On either side are the Left and Right Halls. The main sanctuary has nine rows of columns, each with four pillars. The columns are made of precious wood, over an arm’s span in diameter, inlaid with parallel sentences, lacquered and gilded, and magnificently carved with images of the Eight Immortals, birds, apricot, orchid, chrysanthemum, bamboo, etc. All the columns are adorned with gilded horizontal boards and parallel sentences.

In the central section, at the eighth row of columns, is the altar of Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh. On the altar, the incense burner gleams, flanked by ceremonial parasols and dazzling Eight Treasures. The altar is set very high at the centre, with three skilfully carved wooden statues over 1 metre tall, lacquered in shimmering gold. In the middle is the statue of Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh, flanked by statues of civil and military mandarins in attendance.

In 1978, during the conflict on the Southwestern border, an artillery shell fired by Pol Pot’s forces damaged part of the rear roof, but it was subsequently repaired by the people to its original state.

The parallel sentences (liễn đối) at the communal house all praise Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh, such as:

Khai thác quân thần, công tại biên thùy, danh tại sử,

Trung thần chánh khí, sanh vi chân tướng, tử vi thần.

Provisional translation:

The sovereign who expanded the borders, meritorious at the frontier, renowned in history,

A loyal and upright official, living as a true general, passing as a deity.

Chân Lạp trần thanh, Đông Phố bách niên lưu di tích,

Sầm Giang tinh vận, Tây Thùy thiên cổ thướu dư oai.

Provisional translation:

Dust cleansed from Chân Lạp, at Đông Phố a hundred years mark his great deeds,

Stars fall at Sầm Giang, the Western frontier for a thousand years echoes his lingering might.

The communal house still preserves the royal decrees conferring deity status on Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh from the Minh Mạng and Tự Đức eras, as well as 29 horizontal boards, 22 parallel sentences, steles, and hundreds of other valuable artefacts such as incense burners, ritual bells, palanquins, ceremonial objects, drums, zithers, etc.

Thanks to the skilful and talented hands of artisans, Châu Phú Communal House displays the quintessence and typical features of architecture that bears the artistic imprint of the Nguyễn dynasty, while also reflecting the traditional style of Southern Vietnamese communal houses. On 16 November 1988, the Ministry of Culture issued Decision No. 1288/VH-QĐ recognising Châu Phú Communal House as a national-level architectural and artistic heritage site.

Every year, on the 9th, 10th, and 11th days of the 5th lunar month, a solemn Kỳ Yên (peace-invoking) festival is held.

Nguyễn Văn Hầu, Thoại Ngọc Hầu và những cuộc khai phá miền Hậu Giang. Hương Sen Publishing House, Sài Gòn, publication year not specified.

Huỳnh Ngọc Trảng (chief editor), Sổ tay hành hương đất phương Nam. Hồ Chí Minh City Publishing House, 2002.

Thùy Linh-Việt Trinh, Di tích lịch sử và di sản văn hóa Việt Nam. Labour Publishing House, 2011.